Sewing tip | How to read a cutting layout |

The cutting layout is a truly strategic tool: it helps you optimise fabric usage, avoid mistakes, and reduce waste. Understanding it well saves you time, money, and material. Here's how to decode it and use it effectively.

Identifying the different pattern pieces

Each pattern piece indicates the pieces:

• to cut once

• to cut twice

• to cut on the fold

• to cut flat

Recalculating the yardage based on your size

It's always best to check the yardage you actually need before buying fabric. Each brand adds a different allowance, which allows you to optimise your usage.

At Opian, the (symmetrical) pattern pieces are designed by half to save paper and ink, so you generally need to cut two layers of fabric. Therefore, cutting on the fold and flat for each pattern piece will likely save you fabric.

Consider the fabric width

The cutting layout indicates the width used (110, 140, or 150 cm). Adjust it if your fabric width differs and double-check the yardage as well.

Respect the grain line

Each piece must be correctly aligned to ensure the garment holds its shape. This is more than essential; it's mandatory. A piece that is slightly off-center, whether by mistake or to save space, will make your garment crooked and of poor quality.

Consider the direction of the fabric (pattern, pile...)

For fabrics with a design, pay attention to placement and pattern matching. Make sure all pieces are oriented in the same direction to avoid the pretty bird having its head upside down on a single piece of the garment.

For pile fabrics like velvet, pay attention to the direction of the pile. Generally, the hairs should point downwards for a soft feel from top to bottom. Some fabrics are woven in such a way that the sheen varies, so pay attention to this as well.

Optimise your fabric scraps

You can completely rearrange the layout as long as the grain line is respected. Start with the larger pieces on the fold, then place the smaller pieces in the unused spaces. Lay them on the fold or flat as needed to minimise waste.

Reading a cutting layout is an important step to increase efficiency, reduce costs, and avoid waste. As mentioned earlier, it's best to check it before buying and cutting the fabric for your sewing project.