Sewing tips | How to Sew Stretch Fabrics |

Sewing stretch fabrics like spandex or Lycra can seem intimidating, especially for beginners. They tend to slip, stretch, or warp, and sometimes all it takes is a poor adjustment to create wavy seams. But rest assured: with the right equipment, a few proper adjustments, and good habits, these fabrics become a real pleasure to work with.

Here's the complete guide to successful stretch projects, from choosing the right tools to finishing.

CHOOSING THE RIGHT MATERIALS

Needles

For any project, choosing the right needle is very important for perfect sewing. For a garment with a stretch fabric, you can choose from different styles of specialty needles, such as those for stretch, jersey, or microfibre. A good choice will ensure a clean seam and prevent damage to the fabric.

Thread

Choose polyester thread, which is more elastic and durable than cotton and will extend the garment's lifespan.

Presser foot

Depending on the type of stretch fabric, it may not slide as well under the sewing machine foot. To regulate the seam, it is recommended to use a Teflon presser foot, or a dual-feed foot can help prevent the fabric from slipping.

PREPARING THE FABRIC

Cutting

Be careful, stretch fabric also has a direction! It is important to position the pattern pieces correctly according to the instructions, as incorrect positioning can cause the garment to bunch or lose its shape. Furthermore, some fabrics have two-way or four-way stretch.

Prewash

You never know how the fabric will behave, so wash the fabric before cutting to avoid unpleasant surprises after assembly.

SETTING THE SEWING MACHINE

Elastic stitch

To maintain the fabric's elasticity, use a zigzag stitch or a special elastic stitch if your machine has one. Using a straight stitch on stretch fabric is only possible in areas without tension. This is the case, for example, with the dart of the LISKAMM bra or the crotch of knickers.

Thread tension

Before starting to sew the garment, it is necessary to test the desired stitch on a piece of scrap fabric to avoid thread breakage or the fabric from warping.

USING THE OVERLOCKER

Number of threads

Choose the number of threads you need for your project. If the seam is subject to high tension, it is preferable to use four threads for greater strength. For the entire Opian swimwear collection, I recommend using four threads, so you'll be comfortable diving during your vacation.

Differential

As with a sewing machine, test on a piece of scrap fabric before starting and adjust the differential to avoid stretching the fabric while sewing.

SEWING TECHNIQUES

Do not pull on the fabric

Let the fabric flow naturally without forcing it to avoid distorting it. Otherwise, it risks warping and losing its elasticity.

Reinforcing Seams

Double-stitch stress areas like the side seams of swimsuits for added strength.

Finishing the edges... or not

For a clean and durable finish, use an overlocker or a wide zigzag stitch on your sewing machine. However, stretch fabrics don't fray like woven fabrics, so it's safe to leave the edge raw.

Sewing Lycra, spandex, and other stretch fabrics requires a little preparation and method. By choosing the right tools, following the grain of the fabric, and adjusting your machine's settings, you'll turn this dreaded step into a truly creative pleasure. The more you practice, the more confident you'll become, and soon, sewing stretch fabrics will feel as natural as sewing cotton.